It is only a short ferry trip across the channel from Graciosa to the big island. The trip is well worth it. Half of Lanzarote is covered with vast fields of sharp lava and eery rock monuments. There are some 100 volcanoes and 5 huge calderas on the island, whose geography was rewritten during horrendous, extended eruptions there, in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Strong, cold northeasterly winds are blowing steadily. We find it no burden to repair to cosy waterfront fish cafes to eat, drink and feel snug. Small groups of unhappy tourists walk about with little purpose.