If you ever wondered how Venetian gondoliers learn their trade, I can tell you. At Certosa Island, beside our berth, a young, pheromonal Italian lad is sculling up and down under the close guidance of an old man in a motor boat, calling instructions to him. For some reason I was reminded of a 14 year old boy I saw at a milonga in Ushuaia, being taught to tango by his plump grandmother. How both these kids will blossom in the next few years.
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