Through a long night we ran square under main alone. Not Blue Dove’s best point of sail but in lumpy seas we couldn’t be bothered setting up a pole then gybing repeatedly through busy commercial traffic off the German wind farm. Our Aries steered well in testing conditions. In Danish Bornholm we slept of course. Strong NE winds are de rigeur now that our course is NE. So we wait, cycle and wander the quaint streets of Ronne old town.
In damp windy weather we took a bus north through groomed, rolling fields to the 13th century fortress of Hammershus. Scene of complex and bitter battles between Danish kings, the bishopric, Swedish forces and the Lubeck Hanseatics, it is the largest medieval fortress in Northen Europe. Danish Crusade forces were amassed here. For me, a reminder of how little we Anglocentric history buffs know about everybody else in Europe.