Dogged by light airs and fog we crept slowly along the coasts of Litland and Latland, revisiting picturesque south Baltic ports – Liepaja, Pavilosta, Ventspils – before entering Estonian waters.
Much has changed since Tainui was here in 2012, then usually the only yacht in these decrepit fishing harbours. As elsewhere along the south Baltic coast yachting facilities have burgeoned and now significant marinas have been established.
As we turned into the Gulf of Riga, Wolfgang’s magnificent Dutch yacht Mulligan appeared wraithlike out of the fog for a moment, then vanished.
Blue Dove’s Volvo is far from silent but it has performed flawlessly as we weave our way between Estonia’s offshore islands, ticking off tiny overnight harbours.