02.02.07 – Poking our way south
I’m now well adjusted to the cruising mode. Dave has gone off trekking with his esposa, and lovely Christine has finally arrived. She is settling in on board – this does not surprise me. We’re here…
I’m now well adjusted to the cruising mode. Dave has gone off trekking with his esposa, and lovely Christine has finally arrived. She is settling in on board – this does not surprise me. We’re here…
After that endless, grey and windy crossing from NZ I do feel a sort of accomplishment, but is it enough to justify the broken rib, the burn, the damp and the tedium? Now that we’re…
We entered this secure little bay after a lovely crossing of Golfo Corcovado. A crisp southwest breeze gave us 7 sunny knots and a fast trip despite having to buck some tide. When blue whales…
We had a long day traversing Canale Perez Norte. The canales down here are a real contrast to Chiloe’s gentle pasturelands – rainforest to the water’s edge, mists, swirling tide races, craggy peaks and…
We continue down Canale Perez Sur. Narrower, less exposed and more interesting than Canale Moraleda, this channel seemed always to be generating contrary wind and tide. Much motoring. Today’s highlight was the sea lion colony…
Happy birthday Chris! It is grey and raining, with poor visibility. A snug anchorage in the mountains with Rousseau’s rainforest all around. Breakfast in bed, but the promised glacier gift will be a day or…
This part of Chile is wild, bold and beautiful beyond measure. Tainui is anchored in Bahia Sesquelan, waiting for good weather before going down into Laguna san Rafael. There is thick rainforest right to the…
I’m lost for words. See the photos. Overwhelmed, we motored back to Romilio’s after an unforgettable day. At 47 south it is much colder. We spent an hour looking…
A fine spinnaker run up Estero Elephantes in 20 kts of steady breeze took us north, back to Ensenda los Mogotes. A sparkling sunny day and a calm evening. After a gorgeous morning with best…
Leaving Aguirre we turned north into the broad canal. Cheerful little fishing boats everywhere. With one of them we exchanged 4 beers for a big, slimy pink congrillo which made for a rubbery meal. Hobby-horsed…
Beautiful Puerto Santo Domingo. All alone in this wide flat bay, Machu Pichu peaks, constantly changing light and rushing waterfalls all around. And the usual glacier (ho hum) appearing only intermittently through the clouds. As…
Back across Golfo Corcovado. Motoring between distant pods of blue whales I have intermittent, end-of-journey flat feelings. Not nice, because with the end of the journey will come the end of the intense intimacies we…
Hector clambered aboard uninvited at a most inopportune time. but we will never forget his leathery features and his exuberant conversation. He offered a bag of tiny, sour apples in exchange for vino, wiskie, birre.…
At 0830 we upped anchor, through reams of diaphenous green weed. It is fresh, crisp and cold, with uncharacteristically harsh light. I didn’t know there was sun at this end of the day. Puerto Montt…