We have left the Dodecanese. Last night’s anchorage at Nisos Iraklia was the first of our Cycladic islands. And a lovely little spot it was. The small bay of Ayos Yeoryios has the clearest water imaginable. A blue and white village lies at its head and not a lot is happening there. We wandered up narrow cobbled streets past tavernas where old men sat playing backgammon. Untrustworthy-looking cats prowled the waterfront.
Yeoryious
Yeoryious harbour Iraklion
No job is ever easy on a boat. Our Henderson bilge pump has been leaking and I decided to replace the diaphragm. A simple job, I thought, but it took me 2 hours of swearing and sweating to get some intransigent screws undone. The pump is tucked up under the autopilot motor and the whole process had to be done by feel. But it got done at last.
This morning it is calm, showery but warm. Motoring north, Chris is engrossed in Wallace Stegner and I, The Madonnas of Leningrad. Strong winds are forecast for tomorrow and we will anchor tonight on the northern side of Paros island (Naousa).
Two miles on our right is Naxos, with Mt Zeus intermittently hidden in cloud. It was here that Theseus abandoned Ariadne after she had helped him through the Cretan labyrinth. I’ve never understood why she was abandoned on Naxos. Fortunately, Dionysius arrived and together they lived happily ever after.
I have searched our huge music library for the Strauss opera about Ariadne but we do not have it. Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme will have to do.