At Kythnos we finally swam. Exhilarating but seriously cold.















After poking our way north through the Cyclades, a fast broad reach from Kythnos brought the Attic mainland into view. One of the things we don’t do well is read up on history before we arrive. So that the appearance of Poseidon’s Temple, high on the southern promontory, came as a complete and wonderful surprise. It needs renovation, but after two and a half thousand years that is to be expected, I suppose. What an fine monument to an extraordinary culture. We wondered how much of today’s great architecture will be around after that sort of time.


DSC_5195Here in the eastern Mediterranean there is just too much history to come to grips with. Not only do we need a geologist, we need someone like Margaret on board, to filter the rich, complex stories for us and to give them shape. How she’d love this trip.


2 days later the vast sprawl of Piraeus lay to starboard, glinting in hard afternoon light. And yes, the Acropolis could be seen in the distance behind the city.

Now, tied up in Zea habour, I sip coffee as little fishing boats set off out into the bay. Bronzed young things train in sculls and kayaks against the backdrop of the ancient harbour wall. Church bells ring and the city wakes up. Chris remains in deep coma, bless her heart. She leaves for New York in 2 days and, as usual, will be sorely missed. 







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