We crept into Skjervøy at 11 last night. A pretty, snug little harbour with rows of drowsy fishing boats, neat cottages and snowy mountain slopes. Today it was cold, and when the fitful northerly freshened it became quite bitter. Snow-clad peaks loomed then disappeared through swirling mists. It was good to have Henry Ford ticking over at 1,400 rpm and the bus heater punching warmth into to saloon. The sad news is that our coolant leak hasn’t been fixed – still 1 litre every 4 hours. Where on earth is it going? We can find no external leaks. When cold, the system passes pressure testing at 15psi, so we are dealing with an internal, temperature-dependent problem. We’re off to Hammerfest today, where I will try a hot pressure test on the system.