But we finally got here

That southerly wind stayed with us all the way to Nuku Hiva. 24 days from Galapagos to Marquesas, 6 of which we spent becalmed. For the remaining 16 days we averaged 7.2 knots, for dear old Tainui a quite respectable speed.

We entered Nuku Hiva bay at noon. What a joy to drop the hook and just sit. I had wondered whether there would be any other yachts here and was quite astonished to count 40 of them at anchor. Most of them, I discovered, had come up from Tahiti and the Tuamotus fearful of an errant cyclone. In fact there are only a couple of southbound vessels here, but looking about you wouldn’t know it.



The bay is embraced by black sand beaches and splendid volcanic mountains, whose huge cliffs are dripping with rain forest. In geological terms the volcanic activity is obviously recent.

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Axel and Sonja have escaped ashore for showers and beds at a local guesthouse, while I have taken to bed on board. Passing rain squalls cool the boat and  a splendid absence of those sailing concerns (the risk of an accidental gybe, the need to reef or to tighten the boom foreguy) which prevent restful sleep at sea are things of the past. With Wagner up loud I collapse.

Ashore the little town is extremely relaxed, to say the least. Everyone is large and type 2 diabetes must be thriving here. Cockerels crow, large Polynesian women with flowers in their hair flash broad smiles, cheerful blokes with excellent voices sing to guitar and ukelele accompaniment while surf crashes on black sand beaches. The breeze is gentle and there is mist on the crags. Strange, ancient ceremonial sites lie silent high in the mountains. Grand pine forests and pasture in the highlands are reminiscent of Switzerland. 

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8 thoughts on “But we finally got here

  1. Phil Frost
    March 14, 2016 at 08:55

    Another passage logged, a safe anchorage and Wagner up loud. Life is good mate, what else would you want to do? Even the vicarious pleasure of following Tainui.org lifts the spirits from afar. Here’s to fair winds and safe seas.

    1. March 15, 2016 at 05:47

      Phil, all is indeed good in the Marquesas world. Hope things are OK there on the home front, mate

  2. Natali
    March 14, 2016 at 05:29

    Hi Jonh, I’m Axel’s girlfriend, i´m so happy you all are ok, congratulations on orriving there, enjoy so much the trip, i think that is amazing everthing there!! Greetings to all.

    1. March 15, 2016 at 05:46

      Natali, your man is missing you, but he is quite safe and he’s happy as long as I keep him busy. He likes it here in Nuku Hiva, as do we all. Take care up there in the mountains, won’t you!

      1. Natali
        March 15, 2016 at 07:28

        And I really miss him too!!! but I am happy he is enjoying the trip and you too!! Say hi to Sonja too please =) I can see that place is amazing, you all are so lucky to be there, and yes!! I’ll take care :P

  3. anna
    March 13, 2016 at 21:08

    Good one John .. Bravo! xx

  4. March 13, 2016 at 15:39

    YEAH! John – congratulations on surviving Casa Rosada Happy Hour in Isabela, Galapagos and thereafter result of your new crew mate Axel all the way to Nuku Hiva (so far).

    1. March 14, 2016 at 03:30

      Yes, Claudia, Axel and Tainui survived. No bloodshed either!

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