Yesterday we were becalmed on a flat glassy sea, 100 miles out from the south Queensland coast. Perfect for the 6 hour repair job on the Jabsco salt water pump without which we were engineless. I was doubtful that we could manage this repair, but we did. With a gorgeous sunset we congratulated one another, dined handsomely and toasted our success.


Today we are heavily reefed and crashing and banging our way toward Moreton Island in a fresh headwind. Down below, moving about requires strength, balletic agility and patience. Spray is flying across the cockpit, where there are only two dry corners in which to sit. Getting up there from the saloon without injury takes careful timing and involves more than a bit of luck.

It is difficult to imagine more robust contrasts than these. Memorable. The essence of cruising. Whatever else, these contrasts are not boring.

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