Puerto Eden

We’re bypassing Puerto Natales, so Puerto Eden (pop 140) is our last human contact before Puerto Williams. It is a poor, lonely outpost. But when the current sweeps you round the point out of the Inglese Narrows, the settlement comes as a nice surprise. Especially when you had decided you were absolutely the only people on the planet. Cheerful, brightly-painted little houses cluster around the bay, with tide-stranded fishing boats and friendly Mapuche locals. The colours, set against a grand backdrop of snow-covered mountains, have come as something of a shock after the soft shades of grey to which we’ve grown accustomed.

Puerto Eden is apparently named after a British warship but details are scant. I am sure some military historian will be able to fill in the details for us. The bay is well protected from prevailing nasties from the north, but I could imagine south-westerlies being miserable here in winter. The barometer is high and I don’t expect terrible weather in the next 12 hours, although the weather systems cycle through very rapidly it seems. 

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Main street Porto Eden

We rowed our 10 jerrycans ashore and someone has promised to fill them. Tomorrow we will ferry them back out to the boat. A local lad has agreed to dive and inspect Tainui’s forefoot – we shook keels with Chile in an intimate and unexpected way a few days ago and would like to know where and how much of a mark the rochas left.

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Puerto Eden supermarket

Puerto Eden supermarket

 

 

 

 

 

Puerto Eden anchorage

Puerto Eden anchorage

cottage, Puerto Eden

cottage, Puerto Eden

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We dieselled, watered and had a cheerful diver check the effects of our brush with terra firma – scratches but no structural damage. Tainui’s heavy hull was laid up nearly 40 years old, before they knew how light you could build in fibreglass. I think age hardens the glass, too. Anyway, she”s as tough as old boots.

Perhaps with an excess of caution we’re using two 60lb ploughs on a single 180′ rode of 3/8″ chain. We’re in 30′ of water and the bottom is mud, so even exposed to the south I doubt we’ll go anywhere.

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