We romped south down Canal Messier at 10-12 knots, with poled out yankee and full main and 25 knots of wind across the deck. It is cold and intermittently showery, but all-in-all very nice. The landscape is truly grand – great volcanic peaks, icy and very solemn, shrouded in mist. We’re headed for Seno Iceberg, with its huge version of San Rafael glacier.
Yesterday, motoring into the little anchorage at Isla Zealous (a secret pool, surrounded by steep mountains), Tainui gave terra firma another nudge. This despite our taking all care, going dead slow, in tranquil water, watching the charts and quite aware of the rocks in question. But tannin-blacked water with sun glinting off it was opaque. The kelp warning was absent – kelp has all gone north to warmer waters, Dave observed – and the rocks extended further than shown on the charts.
This was number 3 nudge this trip. Apart from our planned one at Hector’s bay last time, it was the first Tainui’s ever had while moving. The previous two were at calm anchor and tied to trees, with Tainui settling quietly into the mud on the falling tide. Foreseeable but not worth avoiding. This was an unpleasant jolt which I hated. Dave says it is inevitable, cruising in these waters. I suppose he’s right, but I felt I’d failed somehow. I don’t think we sustained any damage, but we’ll need to dive and check when we get to Pto Eden.
The great thing about sailing south in Chile is that it just gets better, the further you go.